Bedini Energizer Kits Available!
Started by admin · · 107 posts · last reply 11 September 2015
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#1 ·
Bedini Motor Kit homepage: http://www.energyscienceforum.com/be.../bedinissg.php
Purchasing a kit through this link supports Energy Science Forum
BEDINI SG BICYCLE WHEEL KIT






YOUR CIRCUIT BOARD WILL NOT BE OPEN LIKE THE ONE ABOVE
YOURS WILL BE POTTED IN A BOX - ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS CONNECT THE WIRES TO THE RIGHT CONNECTIONS
Based on John Bedini's classic bicycle wheel Energizer, this kit is authorized by John Bedini. John designed the circuit himself to make sure that it is built correctly and will perform the same as his. All circuits are tested before they are shipped.What's included…
- High quality laser cut adjustable plastic frame that comes partially assembled. Each one has its own unique serial number with the Bedini logo engraved.
- 20" diameter steel bicycle wheel with axle extensions and bearings. This allows the entire shaft to rotate for the purpose of connecting a fan, switches, etc…
- Aluminum fan blade that you can attach to the shaft. This gives the shaft a real load demonstrating that real mechanical work is performed while moving air.
- A coil that is prewound with 7 power windings and 1 trigger winding. It is wrapped on a spool and will have a a bundled welding rod core.
- Complete circuit board with all transistors, resistors, diodes, neon bulb protection, etc… All you have to do is connect the wires from the coil to the correct places on the circuit, hook an input and output battery up and you're done.
- Batteries not included.
- Shipping weight is 30 pounds.
- Shipping dimensions are 18 x 18 x 18 inches.
ALL SALES ARE FINAL - NO REFUNDS
DOWNLOAD THE ORDER FORM NOW
BEDINI SSG ENERGIZER MONOPOLE KIT ORDER FORM
Bedini Motor Kit homepage: Bedini Motor Kit
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#2 ·
We can also take bank wires - but please fill out the order form first, scan it and email it to info at energyscienceforum dot com and request the bank wire instructions. -
#3 ·
You guys would probably sell way more stuff if you priced things reasonably.
Also... why not try to get the chargers picked up by a national retailer? -
#4 ·
To: John B, Peter L, John K, Tom C, Aron M and all.
Great work for getting out The SG Book and SG Unit as a Product.
I wish you all the luck in selling and brining out a GREAT product.
At this time I would like to show you a New Website called Energy Bat
This Website is some of my work over the years that you all might find interesting.
Thanks
Geoffrey sr Miller -
#5 ·
The cost to have these beautiful kits manufactured is what determines the baseline for determining the retail price markup, which isn't very much. We have no control over the cost of production and we will only work with people we trust to do the job right. All plastic prices have skyrocketed in the last couple years because of the skyrocketing oil prices. Raw copper metal is close to $4 per pound. Just 4 years ago, it was about $1 per pound, so copper's spot price has increased 400% in just the last 4 years and there is a lot of copper on that coil. It goes in cycles but right now, it's at the upper range. No matter what you do, you're never going to be able to bring the prices down of all these raw materials that are the basic building blocks of something like this.bluestix wrote:
You guys would probably sell way more stuff if you priced things reasonably.
Also... why not try to get the chargers picked up by a national retailer?
Feel free to find out what prices you can get the plastic cut like it is in the kit, adjustable sliding pieces with all the screws, etc... someone's labor to wind a 7 winding coil, fully built circuit board with matched components that also takes time to fully test, etc... and you will find that you will easily pay $1000-2000. We're just able to bring down the price from that because we can do multiple units and pass the savings on to everyone. Call any machine shop and ask what they charge just to cut out the plastic for just one single energizer like you see in the pics, plus drilling all those holes. You're talking about several hundreds dollars and that doesn't even include the cost of the plastic. Anyone that has ever dealt with manufacturing understands what this all comes down to and the price of this particular kit is a BARGAIN. And that doesn't include the fact that many people are trading money to save time to get a kit because they don't want to spend any significant time building it from scratch - so it isn't just about the cost of the parts, it is a huge time saver.
The coil alone takes multiple people to stretch out all the wire, twist it, wind it on the coil, cutting the core rods, etc... You would be looking at $200 or more easily just for the coil to pay for the wire, spool, core and several people's labor.
National retailers that sell battery chargers also sell batteries. They would sell fewer batteries if they sold these chargers. All our chargers are built to order - that means they're hand built as the orders come in. At this point, that is the only way to guarantee the high quality. If you've never been involved in manufacturing or distribution, I can understand why you think this is all expensive, but these are not just chargers. They rebuild the chemistry of the battery to like new or better quite often and that is a whole different technology. People are building entire businesses that revolve around our chargers. I have 5 used and discarded starting batteries on my garage floor that are meant for the scrap yard. My little 2A12 was able to bring back 3 of them and those 3 are the largest ones on the floor - all my regular battery chargers were completely useless. The others I think have some shorted cells so they're going to be scrapped. The point is, bringing back just those 3 batteries alone already returned my entire cost for the 2A12. There is no other line of battery chargers in the world that can do that. There are some that can do some minor desalination, but that is about it. They cannot work on these batteries at any deep level like the Tesla Chargers can. The value of these chargers are so high that the actual cost of the chargers are fairly insignificant because of what they can do.
Anyway, the entire how-to on how to build your own bicycle wheel energizer is in the book for only $27 and that includes all the specs that John uses for his own builds - nothing was left out of that book. So, anyone is free to build one for less out of any materials they want. We just want to offer something that works right away when it is put together and have it look beautiful too. I hope you can understand now that the price of the kit is very reasonable considering what goes into it.
And, one of the main points to this forum and the E-books is that you have all the information necessary to build your own energizer and rejuvenate your batteries with circuits that you can build based on all of this information that John has freely shared over the years so everyone can be empowered by the know-how and can build their own devices based on their own budgets. So, there is something here for everyone at all levels. -
#6 ·
so does your searle device work? how long does the commutator last on your newman?geoffrey sr miller wrote:
To: John B, Peter L, John K, Tom C, Aron M and all.
Great work for getting out The SG Book and SG Unit as a Product.
I wish you all the luck in selling and brining out a GREAT product.
At this time I would like to show you a New Website called Energy Bat
This Website is some of my work over the years that you all might find interesting.
Thanks
Geoffrey sr Miller
Tom C -
#7 ·
I know what the coils cost. I bought quite a few 8 filar #18 coils a few months ago for $100 each.Aaron Murakami wrote:
All plastic prices have skyrocketed in the last couple years because of the skyrocketing oil prices. Raw copper metal is close to $4 per pound. Just 4 years ago, it was about $1 per pound, so copper's spot price has increased 400% in just the last 4 years and there is a lot of copper on that coil. It goes in cycles but right now, it's at the upper range.
I know approximately what the 8 SSG circuits cost because I bought quite a few of those too when they were still available also for $100 each.
The plastic I don't care about. I would never make one out of plastic. I have a Window motor kit made from plastic. It has quite a bit more material and circuitry then this new kit and it cost quite a bit less. I wish it was made from aluminum.
I work with electrical engineers in Taiwan who do a lot of small and medium batch PCB production. So 'built by hand' is meaningless to me and it rarely equates to higher quality. Just higher cost. Try building a motherboard by hand. 'Made in America' is also pretty meaningless to me. Last time I checked Americans weren't any more human then anyone else on earth.Aaron Murakami wrote:
All our chargers are built to order - that means they're hand built as the orders come in. At this point, that is the only way to guarantee the high quality. If you've never been involved in manufacturing or distribution, I can understand why you think this is all expensive, but these are not just chargers.
My little 2A12 was able to bring back 3 of them and those 3 are the largest ones on the floor - all my regular battery chargers were completely useless.
I have several of the 2A12's and several of the other energenx chargers. So you don't have to tell me how well they work. I am trying to tell you that if more thought was put into manufacturing, marketing, and economies of scale then they could sell orders of magnitude more units per year and you could all retire and do research full time.
I have the book and all of the DVDs. I have also built several units. I am going to put up some videos soon of testing with ultracapacitors.Aaron Murakami wrote:
Anyway, the entire how-to on how to build your own bicycle wheel energizer is in the book for only $27 and that includes all the specs that John uses for his own builds - nothing was left out of that book. I hope you can understand now that the price of the kit is very reasonable considering what goes into it.
And, one of the main points to this forum and the E-books is that you have all the information necessary to build your own energizer and rejuvenate your batteries with circuits that you can build based on all of this information that John has freely shared over the years so everyone can be empowered by the know-how and can build their own devices based on their own budgets. So, there is something here for everyone at all levels.
As for the prices being reasonable... let's agree to disagree. -
#8 ·
Bluestix,
I'm curious where you purchased those 8 filar #18 coils?
bluestix wrote:
I know what the coils cost. I bought quite a few 8 filar #18 coils a few months ago for $100 each. -
#9 ·
You seem to have it all figured out - so good luck to you.bluestix wrote:
As for the prices being reasonable... let's agree to disagree. -
#10 ·
100 Feet Parallel Coils of 8 #18 magnet wireBranch Gordon wrote:
Bluestix,
I'm curious where you purchased those 8 filar #18 coils?
I guess there was some drama between John and Rick. I don't know. I wasn't really paying attention to that. So this link may be unwelcome here.
8 Circuit SSG Circuit Board and parts (Unassembled)
They used to sell assembled ones for $100. -
#11 ·
Oh ok. As you likely already know, those coils are the wrong length....should be 130 feet. I wonder if Teslagenx will be
selling individual coils at some point. I know they are a pain in the rear to make haha.
bluestix wrote:
100 Feet Parallel Coils of 8 #18 magnet wire
I guess there was some drama between John and Rick. I don't know. I wasn't really paying attention to that. So this link may be unwelcome here.
8 Circuit SSG Circuit Board and parts (Unassembled)
They used to sell assembled ones for $100. -
#12 ·
Tom C wrote:
so does your searle device work? how long does the commutator last on your newman?
Tom C
Tom
Thanks for looking at the new website www.energybat.com
I will be glad to talk to you about Searl & newman. I work with them about 1992 and on.
Please call my phone# 215-910-1193 a lot of info to tell you.
Thanks
Geoffrey -
#13 ·
Pretty sure the length doesn't have to be exact. After quite a bit of testing with these coils I can assure you they work fine.Branch Gordon wrote:
Oh ok. As you likely already know, those coils are the wrong length....should be 130 feet. I wonder if Teslagenx will be
selling individual coils at some point. I know they are a pain in the rear to make haha.
In the SSG DVD when asked about coil length I think the response was something along the lines of as much as you can fit on the spool. The more important part is that all the wires be the same length. -
#14 ·
The reason most people do not get the results that John gets is because they don't do what he recommends.
Getting cheap coils that aren't long enough and cheap circuits with unmatched parts is a good way to get substandard results. Yes, the wheel will spin and you will charge a battery, but will you get the same gains in the recovery battery as John? The answer is NO. The results can still be pretty good, but this is also where people start to blame John because they don't get the same results.
If you want the best results, ideally, you need all the switches (transistors) to shut off at the exact same time so all the spikes for all coils are synchronized to the battery. That is one of the keys to getting superior results. Having them all shut off close to the same time does not give the same results.
If you have 5 people pushing a dead car over the road - what will push the car further? 5 people pushing out of synch with each other (close but out of synch nevertheless) or 5 people working together in perfect unison? The answer is obvious.
There is a reason why the specs in the book are given. That is so everyone knows what John is using to get the results he is getting. The recommended specs in the book is the specs that the kits are built to and it is these specs in conjunction with attraction mode that John is getting super high recovery in the secondary battery.
This thread is for these particular kits.
If anyone wants to discuss something different, please start a new thread or post in an appropriate thread that is already started.
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I'm working with John to see if we can make the coils and/or circuits available by themselves eventually, but it will be a bit. The manufacturer is making all of these in matched numbers for complete kits that people are ordering for now. -
#15 ·
Just out of curiosity what do you mean by 'matched numbers'?Aaron Murakami wrote:
I'm working with John to see if we can make the coils and/or circuits available by themselves eventually, but it will be a bit. The manufacturer is making all of these in matched numbers for complete kits that people are ordering for now.
I would guess that most transistors of a certain type and brand are basically identical to within certain tolerances or they would be discarded at the factory by the transistor manufacturer. -
#16 ·
I should have said matched components.bluestix wrote:
Just out of curiosity what do you mean by 'matched numbers'?
I would guess that most transistors of a certain type and brand are basically identical to within certain tolerances or they would be discarded at the factory by the transistor manufacturer.
For the fact that the components have tolerances, that means they are not matched. They all vary within those tolerances.
Just about everyone has seen this. You can get a pack of 10 ohm resistors and all 10 will have a different resistance. They're all close enough to be used as a 10 ohm resistor.
With the transistors same thing, you can get 10 MJL21194's and they're all not perfectly synchronized. They're within certain tolerances as well.
The ultimate goal is to find ones that are matched to turn off and on at the same time. That way all 7 power winding's spikes will hit the battery synchronized all at the same time. It makes a difference when you're looking at those fast switching speeds. Matching transistors would be an advanced skill. You can have a great energizer without matching them, but when building a race car, we want everything as perfect as can be because like in a race, milliseconds can be the difference between winning or losing. -
#17 ·
Aaron,
Sounds great. This is what I've been waiting for. Matching the components and, even worse, winding coils, is just not my primary skill set. It sounds from the description that this is a single output rather than each winding through a different diode, correct? About what size (AH) battery is this energizer designed to run from and what size bank to charge from that run battery? Can it be used at 24v or only 12? I'm sorry if I'm missing those details but I don't see them.
thanks,
howard -
#18 ·
Hi Howard,Howard Wetsman wrote:
Aaron,
Sounds great. This is what I've been waiting for. Matching the components and, even worse, winding coils, is just not my primary skill set. It sounds from the description that this is a single output rather than each winding through a different diode, correct? About what size (AH) battery is this energizer designed to run from and what size bank to charge from that run battery? Can it be used at 24v or only 12? I'm sorry if I'm missing those details but I don't see them.
thanks,
howard
Yes, the kit is designed as a single output. The standard SG circuit, with one input battery and one output battery.
When we tested it in John's shop we charged a 13Ah garden tractor battery with a similar sized primary battery. All of John's SG machines are designed to run on 12v.
John K. -
#19 ·
Hi John Bedini
Why have you Potted the elc. on the new SSG plastic unit.
If one trans.,res....etc... go's BAD you will have to replace the whole board.
Will you Warrant the board if it go's bad?
If you leave it open, then a trans. goes bad, just replace it.
I though that this SSG was to experiment with?
John are you going to be back here to talk?
Some things to think about.
Thanks
Geoffrey -
#20 ·
As John K. said, it's single output. However, each winding does go through a different diode but they all come together to go to the same battery.Howard Wetsman wrote:
Aaron,
Sounds great. This is what I've been waiting for. Matching the components and, even worse, winding coils, is just not my primary skill set. It sounds from the description that this is a single output rather than each winding through a different diode, correct? About what size (AH) battery is this energizer designed to run from and what size bank to charge from that run battery? Can it be used at 24v or only 12? I'm sorry if I'm missing those details but I don't see them.
thanks,
howard -
#21 ·
Geoffrey,
I think we have talked before, The reason for potting the circuit board is so it can not be changed. If I'm building the kit I want it to work right out of the box. Everybody knows that I match everything in the board. The coil is calculated for the highest performance. If you want to put it together then do so. Rick ran into that problem of people saying that parts were missing transistors were bad and so on. I don't want that problem. I plan on taking pictures of all the parts, and each part will be tested by my people. I always pot things but if you want to build your own it's ok with me. Like I say I will take pictures of everything sent with this kit. I will know that everything is working. If some builds the board and it is shorted out I will not replace anything as I would know that all parts were matched and tested. You can get the kit without the circuit board and make your own. The price I can not do anything with, it's the cost of labor here in the US.
John
geoffrey sr miller wrote:
Hi John Bedini
Why have you Potted the elc. on the new SSG plastic unit.
If one trans.,res....etc... go's BAD you will have to replace the whole board.
Will you Warrant the board if it go's bad?
If you leave it open, then a trans. goes bad, just replace it.
I though that this SSG was to experiment with?
John are you going to be back here to talk?
Some things to think about.
Thanks
Geoffrey -
#22 ·
John_Bedini wrote:
Geoffrey,
I think we have talked before, The reason for potting the circuit board is so it can not be changed. If I'm building the kit I want it to work right out of the box. Everybody knows that I match everything in the board. The coil is calculated for the highest performance. If you want to put it together then do so. Rick ran into that problem of people saying that parts were missing transistors were bad and so on. I don't want that problem. I plan on taking pictures of all the parts, and each part will be tested by my people. I always pot things but if you want to build your own it's ok with me. Like I say I will take pictures of everything sent with this kit. I will know that everything is working. If some builds the board and it is shorted out I will not replace anything as I would know that all parts were matched and tested. You can get the kit without the circuit board and make your own. The price I can not do anything with, it's the cost of labor here in the US.
John
Hi John
Thanks for reading the post.
I know why you pot things, I have been building your devices for years.
I was thinking of the less experience people working with your SSG device,
Not knowing the elec. were potted when they got there SSG unit.
You can see some of my work at my new website energybat.com
I have started to show some of my work.
Here is my new phone # if you want to talk 215-910-1193
Hope things are well for you.
Thanks
Geoffrey -
#23 ·
Geoffrey,
Ok, Yes I have my reasons for doing this I want everybody on the same page so the machine is understood.
For example, if the board is built here and tested we know the machine is working on good batteries. The best battery can be bought at wal-mart. The battery is a garden battery it works the best with the machine. The only thing I see is they have been sitting on the shelf for months and must be charged to bring them back, this requires charge and dis-charging for at least two to three times before running on the machine. I cut these batteries off at 15.23 volts to not over charge them. Other things here are, if your battery will not raise to 15 volts easily they are leaking and must be looked at as maybe useless. Using used batteries for testing works in some case but not all. If your only using the machine for reviving batteries that is something different.
I would really like people to invest in good batteries and not use used batteries the may have been abused and have bad cells. In my testing I remove 1 AmpHr from the battery because of it's size and good testing can be performed doing it this way, charting is easy this way. If you take the battery below 11 volts under hard load you may damage it. Most systems use a C20 discharge rate for this type of battery. C10 at the max for 1 AmpHr out not letting the battery go below 11 volts.
John -
#24 ·
Hi everyone,
For right now, we're only going to make the kits available with the fully potted circuit board.
Each kit is serial numbered so that means that every single one is identical and you are getting John's personal work when you get that circuit.
At some point, we will explore offering the frame/wheel kit by itself without a coil or circuit, a coil by itself, circuit by itself, or coil/circuit combo, etc... but that isn't going to be available right now. The priority is to get the full kit with John's own personally tested circuit board into people's hands. That hasn't happened before and there are plenty of people that want this so they know they have a machine that runs just like John's.
We will look into offering the printed circuit boards, coils by themselves, etc... and at some point when they are available like that, we'll put out notices so everyone knows they are available.
Thank you for understanding. -
#25 ·
Hi John B. & John K.
Is this SSG board going to be available any time soon?
Because I am thinking about making boards with parts to sell.
Is the reason that the SSG boards are not available now is,
because they have a lot of liability on them.
Like people getting there fingers in the SSG boards and getting shock?
And coming back to the people that made them?
Thanks and have a great day
Geoffrey