Branch Gordon

Thanks to all who contributed to the new e-book. I watched the video last night, and I'll be digesting the book over the next week. I've become re-inspired to get my wheel working better.

I think the question rolling around in my mind is how much power can be squeezed from one of those generator coils? If I put the max around the wheel that I could without it "shifting gears", how big of a cap could I charge and how fast? Big enough power to charge up a laptop? Power a small TV for a bit?

And then build a circuit to auto switch the batteries from front to back....just using the continuous power from the gen coils.

Not expecting an answer...but that's what I would like to experiment with.

Has anyone tried, or know someone who has tried, to use the mechanical energy from the wheel of the SG to pump air.

I found this video, showing a wind turbine pumping air: Wind turbine driven air compressor - YouTube
I also found all these amish air-powered appliances: Air Powered Appliances | Custom Air Powered Appliances

Seems like you could pump air into a storage tank and use it in your home while charging batteries.

Thoughts on this?

It's actually H2SO4....sulfuric acid.

I should add that these are the only two discharge cycles I have run on these two batteries since filling/re-filling. I'm sure they will get a bit stronger and become more consistent...

Ok I decided to post some of my recent curves to see what everyone thinks. My newest battery holds higher voltage longer....my old battery drops down and then holds a lower voltage for much longer. My old battery was refilled with a new stronger alum mix. I did not add any acid to it yet.

New battery standing voltage: 12.34
Old battery standing voltage: 12.03

My old battery, before refilling it, had a resting voltage of around 12.86. So just making a stronger alum mix brought the resting voltage near where it should be.

If I add acid to it now...will that bring the resting voltage up? How do these curves look?

Hi James-

Thanks for the response.

The distilled water isnt going to have a ph of 7 after being exposed to air. It ends up slightly above 5.

John B has said that we need to have a PH around 4 for the alum battery to work properly. However, he has also said that the cells can be balanced on both ends of the ph scale.

This info seems contradictory, and I have not been able to get clarification despite repeated attempts.

Through my own personal experimentation, I am seeing that my alum battery works a lot better at a lower acidic PH. I have been adding water to raise the PH.....each time the battery gets weaker.

I was really hoping someone would explain this PH thing better. Its really frustrating that I cant get an answer to this. John has said I need to add more SO4.....you suggested adding alum or starting over....and everyone agrees I need to raise my PH. But no one seems willing to explain how you add an acidic substance and raise PH.

I am obviously really wanting to learn here. I really dont want to start over until I understand.

If a 1% alum solution has a PH of 3, a 60% solution will be more acidic right? And then adding SO4 lowers PH even more.

Where is the PH of around 4 coming from? Is there something happening chemically that I am not getting? When the alum forms a crystal and locks up the SO4...does the alum mix then have a higher PH?

These are really important things to understand. Someone should be able to make adjustments and fine tune these batteries without starting over. I should be able to know from my PH, my curves, and my internal resistance that I needed more or less of something initially.

So it seems to me that adding alum is gonna make things more acidic.

Here's another article discussing drinking water treatment: Drinking Water Treatment - pH Adjustment - eXtension

Here's the excerpt that applies:

"Acid injection treats water with a high pH by lowering the pH of water to around 7, which eliminates the soda taste and can improve the effectiveness of chlorination. This method also reduces the potential of pipe corrosion as water with a pH above 9 can corrode metals such as brass, copper, zinc, aluminum and iron.

Acid injection is a point-of-entry system. A chemical feed pump made from corrosion-resistant materials injects a solution of acetic acid (white vinegar) into high pH water. Citric acid and alum can be used instead, although they are more expensive. Weak solutions of hydrochloric acid or sulfuric acid also lower pH but these are more hazardous and require special handling. They are recommended, however, if the pH of untreated water is 11 or higher. After adding the acid solution, the feed rate should be adjusted until tap water reaches a pH around 7."

Here is my source: Alum (aluminum sulfate)

From what I have read, a 1% alum solution has a PH around 3. Have you read differently?

Hey John K-

Yeah I thought about that previously remember. I posted a vid of me adding 1.5ml of distilled water in order the raise the PH. John B however commented that if I went the "water battery" route I would end up with a really weak battery. He has been saying this whole time that I need to add more acid.

That is the source of my confusion.

I decided to start my own thread here so I can keep my progress more organized and have a better record. Hopefully JB will see this...

I tested my PH tonight with my new paper test strips. Results in video. Any suggestions anyone?