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Stan’s Legacy

Your Design

Started by unknown · · 31 posts · last reply 10 January 2009

  1. hydro

    #1 · date not recorded

    Please Post your Design here, Share it with the world.

  2. Spike

    #2 ·

    My cell is styled after Karebills. It's a six cell. Three 316L tubes each, 1" x 10", 3/4" x 9 1/2", And 1/2" x 12". With a 1mm gap between each of the tubes. The over all size of the cell is 2" x 12" x 16".  It will be supplied water by a live well pump, as suggested.

    Spike

    attachment_1204 attachment_1206 attachment_1208 new cellb.GIF new cellc.GIF new cell 16.jpg

  3. Steve

    #3 ·

    My cell is styled after Karebills. It's a six cell. Three 316L tubes each, 1" x 10", 3/4" x 9 1/2", And 1/2" x 12". With a 1mm gap between each of the tubes. The over all size of the cell is 2" x 12" x 16".  It will be supplied water by a live well pump, as suggested.

    Spike

    Looking good, Spike!

    Br
    Steve

  4. target

    #4 · date not recorded

    plate cell that i have been working on,larger negative plates

    attachment_1210 attachment_1212 Picture 006.jpg Picture 007.jpg

  5. Spike

    #5 ·

    h2opower

     ;D It's a deal  ;D

    Mine should be working tomorrow, I'll try for tuesday.

    Spike

  6. target

    #6 ·

    a small tube cell  not my design borrowed some ideas ,in plain tap water 12 v   4amps about 6 inches long but only 4 inches of surface,125 ml per minute     

  7. Spike

    #7 ·

    h2opower

    Karebill cell video, first run.

    Here is your video
    http://youtube.com/user/bulldogge1232000

    Spike

  8. pochintwin

    #8 · date not recorded

    Hello

    I have a question how is everybody measuring there devices in relation with the volts and the amps for example input amp and volts, output amps and volts if you have and idea


    If you see the measuring of volts OPT A is connected before the FET it give you a reading and OPT B is connected after the FET witch one is correct if you have any idea?
     

    attachment_1233 otro2.jpg

  9. hydro

    #9 · date not recorded

    if i was going to us a PWM to power my fuel cell threw chokes, i would measure the volts and amps before the circuit, not the chokes, then i would measure the amps and volts to and across the cell.

  10. hydrogenmask

    #10 · date not recorded

    I would go like this

    attachment_1235 otro2.jpg

  11. hydrogenmask

    #11 · date not recorded

    Pochintwin
    I`v just saw your last vid 41 on youtube.
    You are putting in    40 volts, 7 amps (280 watts)
    you are getting out  38 volts, 19 amps (722 watts)

    722/280*100 = 258%
    Is that right  ???

  12. Flaghole

    #12 ·

    I've been researching and now started to put together my first cell following SM's work.

    I would appreciate any comments based on your past experience or mistakes. Thanks!

    Here's my Plan View. Working on Elevation View now.

    Flag  8)

    attachment_1299 4inchCellPlanR1.JPG

  13. lapperl

    #13 · date not recorded

    Hello Flaghole;

    I'm new to this forum and by no means an expert.

    But,  for my first career I was a hydraulic pipe fitter for over 12 years.  In my opinion, the thin walled extruded acrylic tubing is not the way you want to go if you plan on pressurizing the cell. 

    Acrylic is already considered a hard plastic, very fragile and loves to crack on you. 

    If you must have a crystal clear cell, and want to go with acrylic, then I would recommend that you use CAST acrylic tube with a 1/4" wall thickness.  It's more expensive, but at least it will be able to handle some pressure.

    You can also find clear schedule 40 and schedule 80 PVC pipe.  Polycarbonate (Lexan) is also another good alternative, but again it's expensive and difficult to glue.  Weld-On makes great products for gluing all kinds of plastics and plastics to metals.

    well thats my two cents,

    LapperL

  14. Spike

    #14 · date not recorded

    Flagpole

    Your gap is to wide, Unless your cell is going to be 24" tall or more.  Try to get at least .065 wall thickness,  Or .095 if you can. You will get better production.

    Spike

  15. CarbedNotch

    #15 · date not recorded

    Flagpole

    Your gap is to wide, Unless your cell is going to be 24" tall or more.  Try to get at least .065 wall thickness,  Or .095 if you can. You will get better production.

    Spike

    I got good production at .024", but now I use .065" cuz my tubes are longer.

    How's the new 100amp alternator working out for you spike?

  16. Spike

    #16 ·

    Been working all week, But I'm off for the weekend  ;D

    Spike


  17. CarbedNotch

    #17 ·

    Been working all week, But I'm off for the weekend  ;D

    Spike




    oil companies look out!   ;D

  18. Flaghole

    #18 ·

    Thanks lapperl. I agree. So I tightened everything up and going with Sched 40 Clear PVC. It's rated 110 PSI ... more than enough for me.

    Spike and CarbedNotch... I appreciate your concern with wall thickness and gap. Do you guys have better luck pushing high amps to generate HHO in your cells?

    What I'm attempting is to follow what SM used for his wall thicknesses. I want to get the tubes to "ring" more easily so that's why the thinner material. The gap is what I believe that SM used to help get the + and - into more of a capacitor state useing the natural resistance in the water. I want to see how much charge i can get the tubes to maintain between pulse/partial disharge states so the constant magnitism in the 304L material will continually keep the water polarized. 304 has a little iron in it and is slightly ferromagnetic. I'm planning around a 14" tube length right now and still ironing out the details in the elevation design.

    Thanks all for your feedback.

    Flag  8)

  19. nogarats

    #19 ·

    Flaghole, the cell your about to build  is pretty close to the one I built
    execpt my mesure were slightly higher.

    My wall thickness is 1/8 and 36" long  with 8" dia.
    Tubes are 1.5" and 1.25" at .064 thickness 27" long.
    I used plumber gasket for spacers.

    My problem is when connected in // the cell draws around 100 amps no pwm.  straight DC  --  I also get a lot of sluge :(
    when connected in series, .8 amp but no production :(

    Here is the

  20. CarbedNotch

    #20 ·

    thin wall tubes: they dont stay true and get dents in them easy.
    One of my cells has a .035" wall and it took special care when machning and handling.
    The output of the cell, in my opinion, is mostly affected by the gap and not the wall thickness ...

  21. Flaghole

    #21 ·

    I have 2 small tubes I am expermenting with right now.

    One is 7/16" dia x 5-19/32" length x .028 wall.
    The other is 5/16" dia x 8-11/16" length x .028 wall.

    They both weigh 27.5 grams.

    Interestingly, when you hit them like tuning forks, the larger dia. tube is higher pitched.

    I am looking at using a vibration analyser to find the critical resonant frequencies of each and shorten the smaller diameter tube to match resonance.

    Flag  8)

    attachment_1409 DSCN3402.JPG

  22. nogarats

    #22 · date not recorded

    What I did was dia X3.1416 x length of the outer tube
    same for the inner tube.

    then subtract outer minus  inner and you should know the length to remove.  just remove a slice, because if I am not mistaking, only the full rounded portion will vibrate. not the slotted one.

  23. Flaghole

    #23 ·

    Thanks for your input nogarats. What I'm trying to accomplish and experiment with is to get both outer and inner tubes "in tune" with each other. I'm also going for a "loose" fit. The amplitude gain you get at certain harmonic frequencies when looseness is also involved really shakes things to pieces. That's why motor bearings tear up and pumps explode. I noticed that in Stan's designs the base of his outer tubes were held in place by spring steel and inner tubes used base clips and neither were hard fastened. With the magnetism/capacitor state you should keep the H2O polarized and the pulses and vibrations should not only crack H2O but also continuously shake the H & O formations off the tubes and make room for more H & O generation. As you "pull" the magnetized/capacitor states between the tubes using looseness, you will gain stronger vibrations in my opinion. That is what I am attempting and want to test. I'm interested in the piezoelectric effect whereas mechanical/electrical energy interchanges (vibrations), as well as, the polarization and electrolysis splitting the H2O.

    Flag  8)

  24. pilot

    #24 ·

    If you are formulating cells for resonance I would like to recommend not to forget the fibonacci number (Golden measure, golden rule, or whatever you wish to call it). 

    1 X 1.618

    If the width is 1' then the length is 1.618'  or some derivative of these two.

    This number appears in nature and man-made things very often.

  25. Marpacifico

    #25 · date not recorded

    Flaghole, the cell your about to build  is pretty close to the one I built
    execpt my mesure were slightly higher.

    My wall thickness is 1/8 and 36" long  with 8" dia.
    Tubes are 1.5" and 1.25" at .064 thickness 27" long.
    I used plumber gasket for spacers.

    My problem is when connected in // the cell draws around 100 amps no pwm.  straight DC  --  I also get a lot of sluge :(
    when connected in series, .8 amp but no production :(

    100 amp will burn you generator, it is extremely high.

    1. Connect in series.
    2. Do not use tap water.
    3. Use rain or destiled water and little bit KOH (Vinager), that will increase your 0.8 Amp.
    4. Try to use PWM, it is going to help you to establish a suitable frequency. Later, probably, won't use KOH.