Water Mist Ionizer Prototype 1.0
Started by Sputins · · 7 posts · last reply 16 January 2015
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#1 ·


The water tank will have an auto fill function using a sensor switch and a small peristaltic pump from a larger reservoir. I may yet need to cut air intake holes.

This shows a standard 12V, 120mm fan installed on top to extract and blow the mist upwards. Only 5v supplied gives about the right speed. -
#2 ·
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#3 ·
Not sure,..
exactly what your going for?
Reminds me of a 'project' thats been sitting on my 'back-burner' for awhile, MAYBE similar?
I want to put a inverter on my vehicle, so I've got 120V AC, to supply current to an 'ioniser' which I intend to mount in the duct feeding the air filter in my vehicle.
First stage would be to SEE if this would cause any particulates, dust etc. to 'bond' to the ductwork, thereby eliminating the need for an air filter, while guaranteeing 'clean' IONISED air to the engine.
Next step would be to put water injection before the ioniser; that way the water SHOULD be converted to hydrogen and oxygen gas.
At least,...thats the idea.
Just eliminating the restriction from the air filter SHOULD give me slightly better perfomance, and if I can use the water injection as a 'boost', might increase performance, or reduce fuel consumption?
I THINK this is what you are trying to do; 'ionise' water mist to convert the water to hydrogen/oxygen gas,...right? Jim -
#4 ·
I wonder how ionized water mist would dissociate in Murakami plasma spark ignition in comparison to plain tap water mist.
Hmm... a bigger bang maybe?
kEhYo -
#5 ·
dutchdivco wrote:
exactly what your going for?
Reminds me of a 'project' thats been sitting on my 'back-burner' for awhile, MAYBE similar?
I want to put a inverter on my vehicle, so I've got 120V AC, to supply current to an 'ioniser' which I intend to mount in the duct feeding the air filter in my vehicle.
First stage would be to SEE if this would cause any particulates, dust etc. to 'bond' to the ductwork, thereby eliminating the need for an air filter, while guaranteeing 'clean' IONISED air to the engine.
Next step would be to put water injection before the ioniser; that way the water SHOULD be converted to hydrogen and oxygen gas.
At least,...thats the idea.
Just eliminating the restriction from the air filter SHOULD give me slightly better perfomance, and if I can use the water injection as a 'boost', might increase performance, or reduce fuel consumption?
I THINK this is what you are trying to do; 'ionise' water mist to convert the water to hydrogen/oxygen gas,...right? Jim -
#6 ·
You can run your car on the gas from your air conditioner.dutchdivco wrote:
exactly what your going for?
Reminds me of a 'project' thats been sitting on my 'back-burner' for awhile, MAYBE similar?
I want to put a inverter on my vehicle, so I've got 120V AC, to supply current to an 'ioniser' which I intend to mount in the duct feeding the air filter in my vehicle.
First stage would be to SEE if this would cause any particulates, dust etc. to 'bond' to the ductwork, thereby eliminating the need for an air filter, while guaranteeing 'clean' IONISED air to the engine.
Next step would be to put water injection before the ioniser; that way the water SHOULD be converted to hydrogen and oxygen gas.
At least,...thats the idea.
Just eliminating the restriction from the air filter SHOULD give me slightly better perfomance, and if I can use the water injection as a 'boost', might increase performance, or reduce fuel consumption?
I THINK this is what you are trying to do; 'ionise' water mist to convert the water to hydrogen/oxygen gas,...right? Jim -
#7 ·
Yes I believe r134a does contain propane or some type of hydrocarbon but only a small amount.Wallywonka wrote:
You can run your car on the gas from your air conditioner.
As for this setup it sounds great, but the electrodes will erode quite quickly. Depending on how you do it, you might end up creating ozone rather than ionizing the air, but that can still be beneficial. Remember that even simply ionizing the intake air will help better atomize the fuel as the opposite charges will better disperse and cling to the fuel.
Ionizing the fuel will help as well as it will reduce the molecule clusters. This should mean that it evaporates/atomizes extremely well. I have a water ionizer, but I paid too much for it to test it on gasoline as I would never trust it with my drinking water afterwards. As for the permanent magnet ionizers, I'm very skeptical but given the right orientation and the amount of fuel that passes by them (faster the better) it should ionize. The problem with this is that the fuel pump isn't always on, and fuel isn't always flowing. Once you reach 50 psi or so (depending on your make/model) the fuel pump shuts off. This is why I would like to see the conventional ionizer using electroplates. If the results from this experiment can be trusted, then perhaps the solution is even more simple than we thought?
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