johnd

I think i need to invest in one of those in the near future 

You can use a one phase freq regulator to a three phase motor like I've used in my setup:
http://www.ionizationx.com/index.php/topic,1074.0.html
Works great and uses less energy because its only using that much energy to keep the rpms stable.

Looks interesting , can you buy them off the shelf ?

Quote from: johnd on February 22, 2010, 00:28:11 am

Hello steve , its a 1.5 Kw which is 2 HP (1500 Watts) single phase motor so its quite a bit . I read in the paperwork that its about 8 amps @ full load .

John

Yeah thats the issue with this , it was designed to be a fuel saver add on thats ran with your petrol enginer , maybe you could switch halfway after getting it running right if you had all the gas processor tech to go along , never will it be overall OU even if it was resonating and producing extra gas .

You could use that much power and a cooling system and produce 15 LPM with some parralel car batteries plain electrolysis .

In the industry we never use single phase , its a complicated and costly device to maintain and has less torque and speed for the same amount of energy than 3 phase . I would suggest to find a 3 phase motor with some big gears and a make yourself a 120 volt high amp DC powersupply or some batteries and buy a 3 phase speed control driver pwm . You will save about half the wattage this way and you will get higher torque and speed and be able to reach higher frequencies , you cant experiment properly without a speed control driver , that thing is a must . These are common in the industry and usually cost about 150$ for a nice driver .

I am currently looking into this , I believe can switch my oscillator into a 3 phase pwm driver with 9 extra components and a pcb for all those and mosfet drivers not ring too much .

The motor is purely for testing purposes , i will be using the setup on a car . I know single phase motors are not the best . There is a way of using a three phase motor on a single phase using caps .... its called rotor verter , i havent dug deep into it but looks easy enough :
http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Rotoverter

John

John, I just love the Lawton type enclosure how it blends together.
I'm interested in the fine details of the complete build.
You have done a exceptional replication job.

Saw those chokes you put inside the alternator is that a standard 100 turn wind and on what core and material wire size?
Do you mind with details?
Can we email or PM?

Ive sent you my email address

Hello steve , its a 1.5 Kw which is 2 HP (1500 Watts) single phase motor so its quite a bit . I read in the paperwork that its about 8 amps @ full load .

John

Yes looking through the site where JohnD posted he has several pictures.
You see the chokes. Great idea JohnD!

That was just a test with the internal chokes ( it didnt work) . I think it really needs to be like outlawstc and donald are working on . It makes more sense to have it wired that way . A bit tricky to do though me thinks . I need to get another alternator to have a bash at it ...... My wife will be pleased hehe .

John

if im not mistaken john, you said you wound your alternator like kevin west? if so you only have a rewound 3 phase alternator just providing higher voltage whith no amp restriction corret?.. can you give some specks on the wind and wire size?

if this is true then i cant wait to see what happens with a 3 phase wound like what me and donald are working on.  the way i see it when you incorporate the bifilars into the alternator is you end up with a alternator that gets 3 times the aid each loop since you get the aid of neg choke, pos choke and secondary in each cavity per phase since electrons are all traveling in the same direction due to them being wound where current all goes one way and you will also a capacitance effect occuring in the stators bifilars..  this will allow the charge to capacitiate in the wires and give it a form of resistance stronger then a capacitor when it goes to discharge since the opposite charges do not have a gap separating them from discharge (they are in wires right next to each other giving them a stronger electromagnetic couple then a cap provides)and i also think that stan may of had an exterior choke hooked to the altenator to increase resistance and up voltage even higher.. not sure on that but will experiment soon..

check out kevin west video where he hooks his hv alternator to a microwave cap and to a tube cell,,  hes getting big buble output from it..  i think if kevin has a microwave core that had bifilars of same length instead of using thr primar on one side of the cell and the secondary on the other he would see even more production..

goto 6:20 seconds to watch the single tubes output
http://www.youtube.com/user/waterforfuel#p/u/10/yk5TDyJTKGQ

Hello outlawstc , yeah its just a high voltage alternator like Kevins , 27 awg 47 winds per loop . Ive got a small bilfilar inductor (externaly ) but doesnt seem to make much difference . I need more wire to make a bigger one .
I was following the thread about incorporating the bifilars into the alternator , really keen to see the results . I would like to try it myself .
Ive tried the microwave transformer like in Kevins blog but im not getting enough volts now to see any change . I'll condition the tubes and add heat shrink around the outer tubes next week , hopefully this will help with the volt drop .
John

Oh yeah ....... and using a 3 phase bridge rectifyer .

Hi JohnD,
Hows it coming along?
Have you taken any more measurements of your system.
I know you said you had 1.5a on rotor.
But also can you take a current reading of the secondary side?
How many diodes are you using 3 or 6?

Lots of questions!

Hello Komtek , ive just done some more tests . On full tilt this time it peaked at about 1.8 amps going into the rotor and about 4.5 amps out . I said before that i was getting about 100v out but that was with distilled water . Im using spring water now and the volts out  has droped to 25 v .
Here's the scope on the output with no pulse :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/45482143@N08/4375712552/

And here's what looks like the step charging effect with the rotor pulsed :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/45482143@N08/4374964543/in/photostream/

Ive done another video clip thats a bit clearer too :


John

@ haither .... There is 1.5 amps going into the alternator (12v pulsed ) , about 100 volts out .

what is the frequency your alternator puts out without it being pulsed?

I dont know sorry . but it does produce some bubbles without being pulsed . I was hoping to do some tests today but havent had time .
John

Yes , its the rewired high voltage alternator method . Loads more bubbles by pulsing it . Getting the step charging effect on the scope , i'll post some pics tomorrow .

John

How much power do you need for that?

Thats using about 1.5 amps

John

After getting frustrated with transformers and chokes i decided to try Kevin West's method . Well im finaly getting lots of bubbles :




Happy days

John