Jetijs

Great video
Reminds me of this:
YouTube - Static Electricity Detection by Water
The static electricity field attracts water stream

What exactly do you mean with the term "cold fusion"?

Thank you guys for the info
Today I made a new cooling head from stainless steel. This works just as well as aluminum. Gathered some water. The water again was acidy and had a metal smell. I dropped some drops of gasoline in this water so that the ratio is about 1:20. I shaked the water for some time and the let it rest for about 20 minutes. I noticed that the gasoline mixes better with this water compared to distilled water. The water turned kinda milky and was not clear anymore. Still, when I tried to burn it later, it did not burn. I managed to get somesmall flames, but these were obviously from the small amount of gasoline left in the water. So I guess there is more to it than we know

Aaron,
ordinary glass does not like a hho flame because of the rapid temperatre changes, it will just crack shatter. It happened a few times so I keep my torch away from glass So I guess that glass is out of the question.
Thank you for the mixing tip Russians said that production costs of one cubic meter of this "blank" water, are about 6$, they said that this involves water circulation through some tubes and centrifuges. Joecell guys also say that stirring the water before using it in a cell, makes it better because of the vortex that is created during stirring. Joe himself demonstrated many times that he can make charged water burn. One time he just poured some of this water into a silver spoon, tapped the spoon with a battery charger leads of small current (just to make some sparks) and then the water would burn with a blue flame. Other method was pouring some of that water into a balloon, then inflating the balloon and set it on fire. The balloon bursts and the water that drops on the ground is now burning with a blue flame.
Interesting stuff

Broli, look in youtube for "Masaru Emoto". This man discovered that water forms different crystals when freezing depending on how it was influenced by magnetic fields, sounds, thoughts ect. If it was influenced in positive way, it forms beautiful symmetric crystals when freezing, but if it was influenced in negative way, it forms misshaped and random crystals of even no crystals at all. This lead him to believe that water has memory. The properties of water are not so much depending on the chemical formula as on the structure of the water. Its all about how the h2o molecules interact with each other and what cluster shapes they form. And this structure can be influenced or changed. I have seen a video where one Chinese guy is mixing 79% of diesel with 20% of structured water and this mix did run a car, he said that the car was now about 15% more powerful. Some Russian scientists had some methods of erasing the structure of water so that it will take any structure you want. They took a bottle of such water and dropped some drops of diesel in it. Then shacked the bottle and let it rest for some minutes. After that, the water had taken properties of diesel and did burn. So if you can erase the memory of the water, you can make it "think" that it is gasoline or wine or whatever you want and it will act like that. Maybe this was how Jesus turned water into wine
Anyway, they say, that one of the ways to get this blank water with no memory is to recombine the hho gas into water again. So I want to try this out.

Aaron, it will condense on glass, but as the glass gets warm, the condensation stops and you can not cool the glass because it is a good insulator. So we need a material with good heat transfer properties, that is not damaging to health. So far I found aluminum to be the best material to condense the water, but I agree that it is not healthy.

I am not sure about the distilled water thing, it might work, but to prove the concept I would rather get some of the HHO water that should be blank.

Hi all.
I have heard that blank water can be transformed in anything you want it to be. You can pray to it and get some healing effect out of it, you can drop some gasoline in it and the water will take the gasoline properties and burn and so on. I decided to experiment in this area. So far the only way I know how to make blank water is splitting ordinary water in HHO and getting it back by burning the HHO. I made a simple water head out of aluminum for the water to condense. I used aluminum because it transfers heat very good. I circulate some cold water in the aluminum water head so that it stays cool all the time. This is important, because not much water will condense on a hot surface. Then I just point my hho torch on the aluminum surface and recombined water droplets are just dropping in a glass. This works good, in about 10 minutes there is about a sip of water in the glass. The thing is that the water smells like metal and is acidic, I used some PH strips to test it and the water PH is about 4-5. That is weird because I don't know what causes the acidity. I am using KOH as electrolyte and this stuff is strong alkaline. Maybe the water somehow reacts with aluminum and that is why it becomes acidic? I should probably use some food grade stainless steel for the condensation plate.
What are your thoughts about this?

Build a working model at first and then we will gladly give you money for the wire

Hi BinzerBob
Thank you for joining this thread
Can you tell me what a turbo charger is? Some kind of compressor?
Thank you,
Jetijs

BTW, this youtube guy has some of those "hydrogen car" videos uploaded;
YouTube - CRX35E's Channel

Just go to his videos and type "hydrogen" in the search bar. There will be 10 videos. This is great stuff. Hurry up, because youtube keeps removing those videos fast.

Now we are getting somewhere. Thank you for the ideas

I already did this. I did not try to burn the mist, but water and gasoline can be misted together in the same container. It is just that gasoline is less dense than water and it flows above the water. The ultrasonic waves need to penetrate both layers and there is no way to tell which layer is converted to mist more. Therefor I think it would be better to make two ultrasonic chambers, one for gasoline and other for water and then just combine the mist output of them.
If we will have a storage chamber full with gasoline vapor under pressure, we can just remove the carby and inject the vapor directly in the air intake as close to the intake valve as possible. This works fine with hydrogen. All you need then is just to adjust the gas pressure to get the RPMs you need. Higher pressure means more vapors thus more speed. At least this works great on hydrogen, maybe it will work this way also on gasoline vapors. For anyone interested in hydrogen converted vehicles, find a DVD called "Hydrogen car". Lots of great info there

Today I will try to make a gas burner from a small plastic container. It will be filled with gasoline and a small fan will be attached on one side of the container and blowing air into it via a small hole. On the other end of the container, there will be a small outlet hole. I will submerge a high wattage resistor in the gasoline and apply some power to it to heat the gasoline. Will see how it performs.

Thank you guys
Jetijs

What is the temperature when the gasoline ignates? Is it safe to heat it to 700 degree F? Anyway, even if not all the gasoline will be evaporated at lower temperatures, this should still give much bigger economy than fuel injection or common carburetors, right? So what would be the highest safe temperatures that I could use to heat the gasoline?

Thank you for the info
I suppose I might try to build one myself.
So far I want to get the most possible out of gasoline and as far as I understand, gasoline vaporization is the key. We could make a small metal container and put a fuel leveling device from some junk carburetor so that the fuel in the container would constantly be at the same level. Then we take a heating element and tut it on the bottom of that chamber. Then we install a thermostat that regulates the chamber temperature to some preset degrees (how much would be good?). I think that the higher the temperature the better as long as it is not high enough to selfignite the vapor. I think that 80-100 degree Celsius could be fine. A pressure gauge would be advisable to monitor the pressure and also a safety relief valve should be installed. Some fine metal mesh could be used just before the vapor outlet to catch all the liquid fuel in the vapor. From the link I gave in the first post, it seems that we now need to compress this vapor to higher pressures in a storage tank. How to do that? Just use a compressor? Or are there some kind of vapor pumps? I understand that the vapor in the storage tank is now more like gas and should be now used just like they use propane or butane on cars that are converted to work with gases. Any suggestions about this design would be appreciated
Thanks,
Jetijs

Hi all.
Since I am experimenting with gasoline vapors I have searched around the web a little and found a web site with info about a gasoline vapor carburetor. The author explains how the current carburetors and injection systems wastes fuel, because only the gasoline vapors burn, not the liquid itself, this is why it is so inefficient to inject small gasoline droplets in the combustion chamber rather than gasoline vapors. Because in the combustion chambet the gasoline turns into vapor completely only after the explosion and the unburned fuel is then burned into the catalyst converter. So the gasoline vapor is the key to get all the power out of gasoline. Using a gasoline vapor carburetor you can get up to 200mpg on a car. There is also explained how the oil companies reformulated gasoline so that gasoline vapor carburetors no longer could work properly.
Here is the link:
Sepp Hasslberger: Pogue Carburetor, 'Gasoline Vapor Maker' Increase Mileage

The author also suggests a rather simple carburetor design to increase MPG.
What do you think?

Rick, have you seen this?


I did play a little with this Perendev concept a while ago.

Rick, check this out:
Directory:Perendev Permanent Magnet Patent Application - PESWiki

Thanks guys.

Alain, the inner tube already has caps on both ends sealing it so that no oil can get in the inner tube
Unfortunately there is a problem in my polycarbonate outer tube bottom plate, I have to replace it and do not have any polycarbonate left. So I will be able to do more testing only tomorrow evening. Will get a better thermometer and test this also with water and see what time it takes to get to a certain temperature using various liquids

I am interested in replicating Loyds friction heater, but until I have everything I need for that, I decided to try out the heater with two cylinders and oil between them. I mean this one:

Thank you Rick for the link

It is really easy and I threw it together in few hours. The outer cylinder is about 25 cm tall and 98mm in diameter with 2mm thick walls. The inner cylinder is about 20cm tall and 86mm in diameter also with 2mm walls. The gap between the cylinders is about 6mm. The inner cylinder has glued on caps so that its ends are shut and it can not fill with oil. The main shaft is just a piece of lead screw 10mm in diameter.

I filled the system up with synthetic gear oil and attached it to a drill press. The highest RPM's that the drill can put out is 2020 RPM. When I turned the drill ON, I started to monitor the temperatures with an IR thermometer. Unfortunately the IR thermometer does not give accurate readings from the shiny cylinder surface. So I put it away. After about 5 minutes, the outer cylinder temperature became so hot, that I could not hold my hand on it (that would be about 60 degree Celsius), so I stopped the drill. I also can not go too high because of the polycarbonate end caps, that could melt at gigher temperatures.

Anyway, it seems to work, it certainly puts out heat. I don't know about the efficiencies yet, but it works. Now I need to get a normal thermometer and do some more testing. Here are some pics:





Any comments and suggestions are welcomed
Thanks,
Jetijs

A friend of mine wanted to build this, I don't know what happened with his project. I think that the best material for those inductor plates could be MUmetal, but it is expensive. As I understand, the bottom line here is that it requires much less work to move the iron plates between magnets and coils, than to move the magnets or coils themselves.

Hi,
I am interested in this type of engine. I already read all the info I could find on it and watched all the videos. I got some serious motor builders extremely interested, but as always, money is a factor. If we get someone with money also interested in this, then we could try to build a small replica of this engine. So far we are thinking of using small pistons and cylinders like those in wood cutting motor saws.
Thanks,
Jetijs

A very good Neodymium magnet store:
Emovendo Magnets & Elements

I buy all my magnets there. The price is reasonable and lots of different magnet shapes and sizes are available