why_me

An update on my 12 volt battery conversion, I gave a full charge using 2 amps, then ran 2 ham radios(12 volt units) until they shut off at 4.5 volts, then I ran, I am still running 46 LED's and the loaded voltage shows 3 volts at 2.5 amps. Unloaded the voltage shows 4.5 volts. When it finally runs down, I will recharge it and watch the results. I will post that here.

The little batteries can also use copper caps at both ends, just make sure the negative cap closes over the magnesium strip so you can see it on the outside of the tube. Completely enclosed now, full of the dry mix, it should read right at 2 volts. Mine did.

I forgot to add that the pex tube should be cut at 1 5/8 inch so the entire length of the battery is as near to a regular battery as possible.

Thanks D Rhodes, I have also used the same formula to make 1.5 volt rechargeable batteries. I also made the batteries to be as near the same size as any other 1.5 volt battery. You can make them like this: Use Pex plastic tubing about 1/2 inch in diameter(according to my measuring tape}, Watts PB121N nylon hex head plug 1/8 inch(according to the package). and a copper tube cap 3/8 inch(according to the package). You have to tap the end of the Pex so the nylon plug will screw into the pex tube.(The tap I used did not match the threads, but it gave a conduit to be threaded) Use a magnesium ribbon to twist around a Philips head screw driver.(1/8 diameter) Use about an inch of twist. Make one end more flat and at least 1/2 inch extended so it will pass through the nylon hex head. Use a soldering gun to make a hole in it. CAUTION! The magnesium ribbon is extremely fragile and will break! After twisting and fitting through the nylon head CAREFULLY put it into the pex tube and secure it until tight to the tube. Painstakingly fill the tube with the wetted, not wet, mixture until absolutely full and a little bulge. Make a tiny piece of paper towel and use it on top of the mix just before putting the cap on the tube. Use distilled water and put a drop at the time on the packed mix, when it beads on top and will not absorb, put the tiny piece of paper towel on top, then cap it. Use masking tape to secure the copper cap to the pex tube. Go to the other end and put a drop of water into the negative side hole until full. (Magnesium end) Now measure the voltage, it should be over 1.5 volts. This battery is a rechargeable battery and gets stronger with use.

Hello, I have used a new formula on my 12 volt Autocraft 16-B battery. 50/50 mix of alum and sodium carbonate, sodium silicate and activated charcoal. Use 1/3 equal parts and mix thickly with distilled water, not to thick. The battery is unadulterated with acid, no acid, the lead plates were virgin. After filling with the mix about half to 2/.3 up, fill it up with distilled water. After each cell has been added to, shake it upside down to rightside up to equally distribute the matters. do this after each loading to each cell until the cells are full. The uncharged battery after filling registered 7 volts with a 300 milliamp charge. Now it is on the charger and I periodically check the volts and amps and it is taking a full charge. I will keep all of you updated as it goes along. Kudos to Plengo for his formula that I used and mixed it with John Bedini's.

Okay, so if 24 plates equals 1.2 volts but with a high capacity, then I would need a lot more individual containers to add up to 24 to 30 volts dc. So, 25 containers would be 30 volts dc. Okay, I know this is all hypothesis, so with 25 "cells" or containers I could get the required voltage. Now, the capacity of each cell/container, if the container can hold, say 20 to 25 plates, then how would the current be multiplied? by 20 to 25 or the distance between plates? Will the mix be one of the factors to determine this answer?

Please share your experience with your work. Thanks why me.

Okay, I figure if the plates would hold a charge of 1.2 volts dc, like John Bedini does with his other batteries, then this would be the range for this design. I then multiply 1.2 by X to get between 24 to 30 volts dc. 26 plates totals 31.2 volts, 25 plates totals 30 volts,......20 plates totals 24 volts. So the deciding factor is, how to determine if this is a true statement. What is the factor in an equation that results in the plate voltage? Length times width? the thickness of the plate? The amount of surface area to hold the chemicals? With 100 mesh/holes per square inch, there should be alot of potential. I am waiting on some knowledeable advice from one of the more advanced members who can and will guide me to the finish line of this seemingly long journey.

Hello All, I would like to construct a stainless steel screen plate battery using the alum mix(es) for a large amphour output in the 24 to 30 volt dc range. The screen is 100 mesh/holes per square inch, very close together, and I have 16 ft. by 4 ft. left over from my Faraday cage build. The cage used 84 ft. and is 7 ft. by 7 ft. by 7 ft. Anyway, I believe the screen can be used to make batteries and I was hoping the members would join in to further along the build. I am on a very fixed income, so I cannot be using up any resources for "try this" ideas. I will be using a Buckhorn sturdy plastic container similar to the photo. I also will use the screen in 12 inch by 8 inch sections for the plates. The inner diameter of the container is about 12 inches high by 12 inches wide by 18 inches long. I figured 8 inch high plates to allow for other factors such as possible expansion due to unseen results and/or gassification and/or etcetera. So, if the members will allow their pooled knowledge to help with this project, I will post the video(s) of the entire build on this forum. To start, how many plates will I need to produce 24 to 30 vdc?