h2ocommuter

Ideas for successful Bourke cycle engine

I talked to two of the mechanics where I work and received a couple of ideas that will make figuring out the supplies and details to make the start of your build much easier.

Look for a motorcycle type engine at junk yards that have 4 cycle independent jugs. From there Pick up the complete engine. You can use the block to make molds of the attachments to the cylinders and melt down all unneeded aluminum. You can also use the pistons to cast your own blanks because the original pistons are not designed for the Bourke application. The diameter needs to have an interference tolerance and the top of the piston must be fashioned to allow the intake and exhaust transfer ports to operate correctly. You will also have the correct sized rings to fit your new pistons. No guessing, you can order new from the factory. OEM parts.

I thought about this while talking to my brother and now it just dawned on me that the stroke is not going to be correct but "what the hell", So what the stroke is may be negligible at this point. I guess I should get one and find out how if possible I could make this work. My inclination would tend to make me believe the stroke is going to be too large to use the same crankshaft but on second thought; here is the scenario.

Crank say 2.5" Normal stroke
Crank with scotch yoke "let's say 1.75"
So now we have 3/4 " to make up at the bottom of the cylinder. This can be easily done by Extra metal spacers at the bottom where the Rod seal is. This would take up the space needed to get the precharge in the correct balance to measure 50 psi for the transfer port.




Just a little help.
Contact me with any Ideas help or fumbles

Zane
559-513-4762
Fresno Ca.

You can call me any time Aaron
559-513-4762

200 CID using 5 1/2 " jugs from a deisel

5.5/2=2.75\ so Pi * 2.75*2.75*4.2099=100*2=200 cid

The Stroke ratio I have chosen "from Russ's guidelines was calculated at 5.5/1.306444... the range is suggested as an application guide. ie: Long stroke gives greater HP, I chose the shorter stroke to get Lower HP at any given rpm.

Jetijs, Aaron, David
I would concur that it should be possible to build any size engine. I have long thought that a small enough engine could easily run on hydroxy gas, but really it all comes down to getting the parameters correct. I want to know what the bore is in the 30 CID engine. if I could get that I would be off and running to construct a 10% model. Furthermore, Russ suggested relying on already made parts like rings; Knowing this will allow you to customize your build. After doing some calcs, I would figure the 30 CID is supposed to be 3" Bore and 1 1/2 stroke figured and a 1.4 ratio for the stroke.
BTW, if you adhere to the notes Russ said approximately 1.33-1.66 area for the stroke calculation you should be in good shape.

One of the most serious obstacles is in harnessing this rotational energy.
I will design a clutch system that will qualify for this task. Essentially there are designs that use an "over-center lock", that you can apply whatever pressure "adjustable", you want that can be set at the pressure you desire. So if yo go beyond that pressure the clutch plates will slip until the driven shaft matches the input rotation speed.

I have started serious contemplations about building some of these engines.

Everything to me seems like a strategy in essence so Lots of thinking before building.

I have a lathe, Most attachments that I need; however, I must to put together a fantastic foundry to cast parts and equipment. I need more space in my shop,

I have talked so a couple of the forerunners in this quest who have serious desires in seeing this technology flourish.

Please get in touch with me if you have any documentation that is relevant. Ideas or fumbles you see....

Zane