dR-Green

Hi N8, most of my tests were also done without meters connected so there's a lot I've tried and have no idea what's going on, and I really should start making notes because I notice loads of things etc but I totally forget about it because something else happens On the neon though, I first tested it with pure water. The neon came on, then as you add salt it slowly fades out.

The SG really doesn't want to go fast with a HHO cell though. One of the things I want to try next is to add resistors (or a resistance) on the SG output to see what's happening and to see if it can sort of be tricked into pulsing faster. I dunno, I'm just stabbing in the dark here but I'll learn something either way

I just signed up to energetic tube and uploaded these playing with the CFL anyway. I filmed them to show a friend and I wasn't intending to make it public as such so it could do with some editing you could say. That huge pile of junk was my work space until a few days ago so not ideal working conditions

Thanks for the tip on salt That reminds me that my friend mentioned smelling chlorine when he was holding the cell. I was too busy fiddling with circuitry to pay attention at the time but that explains it.

I'll have to get back to you shortly anyway, I'm in a fantastic hurry to go out now

That's a good idea, measuring the HHO to frequency ratio. I'd be interested to see those results myself. At the moment I'm just using plastic pots with my electrode contraptions dropped in so there's no way to capture the HHO, but I've bought some of those seal-able air tight kitchen container things, and a few simple garden hose connectors, so my plan is to make a hole in the lid of a container and glue the hose connector on to it, so that way I can easily attach a pipe which will go into a similar set up but the 2nd one will just be a bubbler.

The pulsing cap thing you mentioned had crossed my mind, but then what John Bedini says comes to mind with charging batteries, that the pulsed cap method converts the energy and charges the battery with positive energy. Though I suppose it would still be pulsed, and we're not trying to charge anything here. Could be worth a try. I have plenty of 555 chips at hand, I just don't know how to make an actual timed pulsing circuit out of one

This then relates back to my previous post though... If I put a cap on the SG output then I wouldn't be getting the 40v spikes, it would change to something else because of the cap. So it would have to be a standard kind of setup I imagine... SG charging the cap, and then dumping the cap into the HHO cell. The SG isn't directly powering the HHO cell this way (as far as I understand at least), so the HHO cell would be receiving whatever the cap is dumping into it, not what the SG is putting out directly.

I have a couple of quick videos of the weird CFL effects, I'll have to sign up to energetic tube or whatever and upload them there. My workbench is complete now so it will be easier to do experiments and take notes/pics etc from now on. So far I've been having to use my bed as a temporary bench then I have to dismantle everything before going to sleep so experiments haven't gone far at all yet. Batteries are one thing but my bed + water don't sound like a pleasant combination

Hmm, I'm sure there was another reply by someone here but it's now gone? I wanted to check out the video they posted and then I forgot to reply sorry, whoever it was.

Anyway this whole thing with water hasn't gone very far yet because I've been busy starting building Tesla coils, making a workbench to work on instead of my bed, and playing with transformers connected to the SG output. But it has led to a thing that relates to the HHO cell, now I'm curious as to how what is connected to the SG output affects how the whole thing works, how the SG effectively adjusts itself according to the load.

Not to mention CFLs on the output, connected through a 240v to 12v transformer connected in reverse, at certain frequencies/SG trigger resistance, only lights brightly when I touch it or place conductive objects near it, such as tin foil or wires. If I place this conductive "antennae" close to the CFL but not quite close enough to make it light, non-conductive objects such as a piece of pine wood makes up the difference; when I touch the CFL with the piece of pine, the CFL lights I'm also rectifying the transformer output so the 11w 240v AC CFL is working off pulsed DC (110mA 12v SG input). But the CFL won't stay on constantly, it's more like a strobe. My theory at the moment is that I'm using an off the shelf standard mains step down transformer so it's designed for that purpose, and this acts as a limit that the SG can't overcome because it's not a brute force system.

Thanks for the replies. I don't fancy playing around with mains and water, I'm just having a bit of fun for the moment. And that's not the kind of fun I have in mind lol Like Sawt2 said there isn't much gas being produced, but there are things I want to try.

Thanks for that information kcarring. Now that I have 2 of these tube things I've noticed I can increase the voltage by having more of them in parallel, and decrease the voltage and increase current by using more salt in the water, so I intend to play around with that a bit to see if there's a balance it likes, or try to aim for 2.3v like you suggest.

How do you mean design your cell to the input though? I literally have no idea about this so at the moment I'm just thinking of it as a surface area of metal in water. How to design metal tubes to suit my input (which is a Bedini machine) I have no idea. Although the tubes have a curious effect compared to rods. As I said above, the rods plonked in water showed about 8v, the tube inside a tube only 1.8v. So that's weird I thought. Does larger surface area cause a lower voltage, because surely there is larger surface area when I'm using the tubes? But then, if I put 2 tubes in parallel, the voltage increases to 6v, so the larger surface area can't decrease the voltage? I don't get it. I need to play more lol.

Yes Farmhand, that's the only explanation I could think of too. But the weird thing is, I put another tube in parallel in the water, the voltage increased from 1.8v to 6.6v or so, input current had gone up to 400mA, but the output current also increased. Maybe that sounds crap and I can't remember the exact numbers, but I find the ratios of changes interesting if nothing else. The potentiometer is a lot more responsive with 2 tubes in the water too, I can now get it up to about 190Hz.

sucahyo is talking about the same effect I believe. So I guess this also answers one of the questions about the SG I haven't even asked yet: Is it possible to charge a lower voltage battery from a higher voltage input. Thanks for the info everyone

I am noticing very strange things so I thought I'd share what I'm seeing in case maybe someone else has also experienced the same thing, or if not maybe it could be worth investigating further.

To explain a bit about what's going on, I went to a guy's house on thursday evening who mentioned Stan Meyer and had built a crude and simple water fuel cell, consisting of 4 short rods poking through the bottom of the cell. I did some research (youtube) on friday afternoon and returned to his house with my SG and hooked it up to his fuel cell. The thing worked and was producing hydrogen and oxygen bubbles.

So, now that I saw it was simple and worked, I came home and repeated the experiment with an even cruder cell by cutting 2 pieces of 6mm steel rods and put them in water in a glass jar, connected the output of the SG to each rod, and turned it on. The neons lit up, so I added salt as they slowly faded out until they went off. The voltmeter showed around 8.75v across the SG output, and 40v spikes on the scope. Some fizzing and a stream of small bubbles coming off the rod connected to the negative. The potentiometer works normally, as it would if the SG was connected to a battery, varying the frequency and current and what not. I haven't tried this test while measuring the input or output current so I don't know about the input or output. The rotor spins pretty fast, but I forgot to look at the frequency.

But this is where it gets strange. Friday I went shopping for some steel tubes, I got different sizes mainly to try a Joe Cell, but I built a simple thing for basic electrolysis I thought using a 6mm rod placed inside a 10mm tube, which are both negative (the rod extends out of the water for connecting), which fits inside a 25mm tube which is positive (as per Stan Meyer's basic design), and the whole thing is held together with plastic bottle tops on either end, with appropriate holes cut in them for obvious reasons.

So I dip this contraption in the water. No more small fizzing bubbles. Now it's doing something strange, creating a sort of foam of bigger bubbles on the surface of the water.

Also a very strange and different waveform on the scope. 20v spikes, 1.8v showing on the meter. Increasing the SG trigger resistance in the upper 50% of the pot range causes the rotor to slow down, and input current drops to 100mA minimum, while output is 100mA minimum. Input and output remain pretty much even up until 150mA input, then output climbs faster than input.

The lower 50% of the pot doesn't alter the speed, the maximum it will do is 123Hz. But the lower 50% range does change the input and output current. At 680 ohms, input is 375mA, and output is 450mA.

So I have no clue what's going on here But it's given me a couple of ideas for things to try, and I'm about to put another electrolysis tube contraption together and play around to see what effect different configurations (use separate containers or put both in the same water, parallel or series on the SG output etc) has. Also I'll make sealed containers with a way of attaching a pipe to get some way of being able to see how much gas is being produced.

I'm using a standard monopole circuit, tri-filar coil with 2 parallel circuits, and a rectifier made up of 4 diodes across each coil. Standard SG hooked up to steel placed in water with a bit of salt instead of a charging battery basically. Apart from the input and output current numbers, I found the difference in electrolysis effect between using the rods and then using a tube inside another tube curious in itself. Though there are still one or two things I'll have to modify in order to rule out what the cause might be. But the fact I can't get the rotor to speed up, and the voltmeter is only displaying 1.8v is also curious. I don't know why this is. It doesn't make sense in my mind that a simple (and small) change in surface area through going from long rods to short tubes would have such an effect.

Anyway, if anyone knows what the hell is going on here or wants to give it a try and see what they come up with, be my guest

Some videos are slower than others, but I haven't noticed any particular pattern to it. Even one that is streaming slow can speed up if you refresh the page, or establish a new connection.

Beyond that, my trick is to NOT install Flash for Firefox, and instead use IE Tab whenever I CHOOSE to use Flash, thus avoiding having animated adverts taking over my screen on every web site. If I want to keep the file, once the video has finished streaming the .flv can be found in the Temporary Internet Files folder. If you want the .mp4 add "&fmt=18" or "&fmt=22" at the end of the youtube url. Instead of an .flv you will now find the .mp4 in your temp internet files folder.

Failing all that, use JDownloader. It decrypts the page and lists all the available files relating to that video without needing to open any browser at all, all you need to work it are urls.