19 posts
· 278 more in threads this archive does not carry
· writing between Oct 2008
and Sep 2015
An identity on Energetic Forum as it was harvested, not an account on this site.
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What a brave person you are to try and bring some sanity to this forum. I wish you luck on that.
I would add one other qualification for "cold electricity". High frequency is also a factor. A high voltage low current DC source does not behave the same as a high voltage low current rf source. And I believe that what a lot of people on this forum are describing as "cold electricity" is nothing more than the normal behavior of rf energy.
to the forum. I don't want to throw cold water on your idea but I don't believe you will be able to maintain the heat you would need in the engine for this idea to work. A diesel engine works on the same idea except it ignites fuel instead of turning water to steam. They have a very high compression ration of usually over 20:1 instead of the lower ratio of a gas engine. This high compression is partially for the same reason you have said. It helps to heat the air. However it is not enough to even fire a diesel in cooler temperatures without some form of extra heat put into the engine. So diesels use glow plugs or airflow heaters to help get them started and they use quite a bit of power from the battery besides the cranking power needed for the starter.
If you had glow plugs or some form of continuous heat to offset the cooling effect of the water turning to steam you might be able to get your idea to work. I would suggest you study how much heat it takes to convert water to steam. You see when the water turns to steam it absorbs a lot of heat and that will cool down your cylinder a lot. So the compression has to overcome the cooling and still build enough heat for the next cycle. An easy way to try your idea would be to get an older junk diesel car and maybe modify the injectors to get them to inject water. You would need to treat the water with something that would break up the surface tension of the water so it could flow through the injectors and the injector pump. Then you could try wiring the glow plugs to stay on all the time and try your idea.
Actually there have already been some inventors that have used a mixture of diesel fuel and water with an emulsifier to allow the water and diesel to stay mixed. They don't run on straight water but they have run on as high as 50% water according to some reports. Good luck on your ideas and keep thinking!
In the "Use for the Tesla Switch" thread on page 19 post 551 there is schematic showing how we were using the SG3524 chip. For 50/50 output you would leave off the dotted lines labeled pulse width control.
If you can get an SG3524 chip in your country you can use that to make a circuit that will give you an almost perfect 50/50 duty cycle. You could then use the output of that chip to control the 555 chip using pin 4 of the 555. This should let you have full control of the frequency of your pulses and control of the on and off times too.
You asked about your circuit if you needed to keep the ground from the 500 volt side connected to the ground of the mosfet driver chip. Yes you do need to keep them connected together so the mosfet driver chip can have good control to the gate of the mosfet.
If you have a probe for your scope that has a 10x position you can probe from the source to the drain of mosfet to see if it is turning all the way on and off. Put the ground of the probe on the source and the hot side of the probe on the drain. If you don't have a 10x probe you can check at the gate and see if you are getting almost the full 12 volts at the gate when the driver chip is turned on. If you are getting the 10 or so volts at the gate when turned on then the mosfet should also be turning fully on. Again just put the ground side of your probe on the ground of the circuit and the hot probe on the gate. Hope this helps some.
I checked the data sheet for your mosfet driver and it looks like you have everything drawn up properly. I would make R1 and R2 about 1K to start with to limit the current and see how everything switches. If you do not get full on and off like you want you can try lowering R1 a little and then R2 if you need to. I would not go lower than about 100 ohms on each of them because you could burn out the opto coupler or the mosfet driver.
Well it's been a little over a year and a half since I did the Cerma treatment to our 1995 Saturn wagon and it is still working fine. We have put 30,000 miles on the car since then and it still uses no oil between normal changes and will only use about a quart if I let it go for 5,000 miles instead of normal 3,000 between changes. I think the oil is just breaking down after that long. The oil is still staying clean for a lot longer too. That is why I let it go sometimes for 5,000 miles before changes. It just doesn't look like it needs to be changed at 3,000 miles. The mileage is still up there too, in the mid 30s on a long trip. Just wanted to give a follow up report.
I don't want to be a wet blanket here but it seems a lot of people are not looking at this from a realistic viewpoint. I am all for free energy and even spent the money to go to the conference in Idaho which was great. But I don't think this is real.
My first problem with these videos is his technical explanations. Has anyone ever seen a 220 volt forklift motor? I have worked on several over the years and most of them are 72 volt and some are 48 volt systems. I have never seen a 220 volt forklift motor.
I also have a problem with his "antenna". He says it is tuned to the Gigahertz range. A coil that size could never be tuned to the Gigahertz range. At best you might get it to the low Megahertz range.
If you listen closely you can hear what sound like a small motor reving up to a pretty high speed before he lets out the clutch. I think the horn blowing is to try and cover up that sound. I think he has a small motor in there that is geared way down so it can pull the vehicle. Even a half horse power motor could move that vehicle at that speed if it was geared correctly.
I have problems with several other areas of his explanations but the real clincher was this. If you had a special antenna that could pick up that kind of energy would you really allow some guy to park his butt on it? When I saw the guy climb up on the back and sit on the special receiving antenna I knew this couldn't be real. Even if my other objections are incorrect as soon as he sat on the antenna it would have stopped working because his body would have seriously detuned the antenna circuit.
If someone has any proof my conclusions are incorrect I would gladly be corrected. I would love for this to be real but it just doesn't look that way to me.
If you guys would do a little research you would find you can still buy them today. There is at least one US company and some Chinese companies still making them for off grid systems. They are rather expensive, but considering their great qualities probably well worth the price. Just type in "nickel iron battery" into your favorite search engine.
I don't see any way this thing can work. What makes the rotor turn? They are showing coils to take power from the turning rotor, but not any way to drive the rotor. It looks like a pretty elaborate scam to me.
According to the people at Cerma this is a one time deal. There are some copy cats out there that are saying their product should be used again at about 100,000 miles later. But Cerma says their product is good for the life of the engine, which according to them should be about 2 to 3 times as long as it would normally be. By the way they had a court battle over the name and finally won that in federal court. They were declared the original owners of the name Cermax. In order to prevent confusion over the name they changed the name to Cerma, but it is still the same product.
When I first saw this posted here I was pretty skeptical and decided to do some research. I went to some of the forums that deal with engines and engine additives. From the people that had NOT tried the product they were almost all convinced it was another snake oil. However everyone that had tried it said it really did work so I decided to give it a try. I am always leery of the testimonials about a product on the home page of the product so I wanted to get some other feedback. I think if you try it you will be surprised at how well it works.
Well, I don't know a lot about hydrogen embrittlement. If it affects all the metal parts in the combustion chamber then I don't think this would help. According to the research I have done this only bonds to the metal where there is actual surface to surface contact between 2 metal surfaces. It is the heat and friction together that causes the bonding action. So I am guessing there would be no change to metal surfaces where there is no contact with other metal. Also this is added to the oil so very little would get to the top of the piston or cylinder head in the combustion area.
I put this in my wife's 1995 Saturn wagon which has the twin overhead cam 1.9 liter engine. I had rebuilt that engine at about 100,000 miles because a bad design flaw had caused part of the top land of 2 pistons to break off and let the rings start flopping around. Of course the compression fell off and the engine started running rough. I rebuilt it with all new pistons and rings. It never seemed to have the power or get the mileage it used to after that. It also used a little more oil than I thought it should. I was a mechanic for several years so I had done all the proper things for an engine rebuild yet the engine just wasn't as good as new like it should have been. I really think that for some reason the rings just didn't seat properly after the rebuild.
When I put in the Cerma a couple of weeks ago the car had 158,000 miles on it. You are supposed to drive it for at least 30 minutes after you first put it in. At the end of a 45 minute drive I could tell the engine was running a little smoother. This past weekend we went from central Georgia to northern Kentucky. When we got to the mountains in northern Georgia I could tell there was definitely a difference in the car. This car had always had to down-shift to keep up to speed on those long hills on interstate 75 if I had the cruise control on. On this trip it didn't do that! I was really surprised. I didn't really expect to see a lot of difference in the car because it wasn't running bad before. It just seemed a little weak and used a little oil. If you are familiar with I 24 going from Chattanooga to Nashville there is a mountain you go over called Monteagle. Even if I drive it with the cruise off this car has always had to down-shift to keep up to speed going up this mountain. This time it didn't! When we got to KY I checked the oil and I could barely see a difference on the dipstick. I had really been driving the car hard too. I was running between 70 -75 mph all the way except for 45 minutes stuck in Nashville where we only went 10 miles in that time because of ballgame traffic.
For only about $46 including shipping this is certainly an easy way to get an engine back to like new performance. I was really surprised at what a difference it made. I have tried a lot of things over the years but I have to say this is one product that does what it claims to do.
Well I typed a really long post telling about my great experience with this product and when I tried to submit it this forum said I wasn't logged in so I lost it. I don't have time to retype all that again so I'll just say I am really impressed with what a difference it has made to my wife's 1995 Saturn wagon. They have a new web site were you can order directly from them and even pay for it with Paypal. I have no connection with them in any way except I am a very pleased user of their product. If anyone has any questions about my experience I will try to answer them later. I have something else I have to do now.
Hi guys, Sorry to break the bad news guys but it is not that simple. Jatropha is an excellent oil to use for diesel engines. However it must first be converted to biodiesel if you don't want to destroy your engine. My son and I have been using biodiesel for over 6 years now. My son first started with straight used vegetable oil and the heat system that you have to add to your car to get the oil hot enough to go through the injection pump. After about 10,000 miles the engine was junk. He learned the hard way that straight vegetable oil has long molecule chains that will not burn completely. This leaves carbon in the cylinder which eventually builds up to destroy the engine. He has a friend who destroyed a very nice Mercedes engine just like the one in the video because he ran straight vegetable oil in it. The guy in the video never says he makes biodiesel from the plant oil so I don't know what he was running in his car. He does however made a statement in the comments that I am sure is false. He states he gets 40-45 miles per gallon on vegetable oil verses 27 on regular diesel. I have a Mercedes just like his except mine is an 84. I get slightly less milage on biodiesel than I do on regular diesel and so does everyone else that uses biodiesel. But my car runs smoother and doesn't smoke at all and the biodiesel I make myself costs me half as much as I would pay at the pump for regular diesel. By the way plant or vegetable oil can only be used in diesel engines. If the oil could be fermented in some way to make ethanol then it could be used in a gasoline engine. So the bottom line is if you want to use plants for fuel you will have to have a way to process it into biodiesel or ethanol. Since the process for making biodiesel is much simpler my son and I went that route. I hope this information will keep someone from destroying an expensive engine.
My son and myself have also been producing our own biodiesel for six years. I am very interested in how you separate the glycerin so quickly. My son has developed a very simple wash system for cleaning the fuel that works very well. Maybe you would be interested in that. You said you have not bought any fuel for six years so does that mean you live in the south or have you found a way to use biodiesel in cold weather? I read about a process some time ago where a university was doing something to the biodiesel so that it didn't gel in cold weather any worse than regular diesel. Maybe you know something about that. Well enough of my rambling. Just to let you know we definitely are interested in what ever you can share.
Thanks for the link. This is very interesting and looks like something that could be done by the home experimenter. The agitation device seems to be the hardest part to get right. The electrolysis should be a piece of cake for the water fuel guys. Thanks again, citfta
The AC compressor idea is good but modern AC compressors depend upon the oil in the freon for lubrication. If you use one of them to pump gasoline it will lock up in a short while. Some of the old style AC compressors had an area below the piston that was an oil reservoir and that kept the piston lubricated. The old style were the big square ones. Many years ago my Dad and I ran a small engine off the vapors of gasoline just by putting a small radiator hose into a large fuel tank off a truck. We connected the other end of the radiator hose to the air intake of the carburator of the small engine. The truck fuel tank had enough fuel to completely cover the bottom of the tank. We had removed the fuel gauge sending unit and let the fresh air go into the tank that way and had the radiator hose stuck into the filler neck of the tank. This would run the small engine for a few minutes until we used up more vapors than were being produced by the gasoline. If we had heated the tank I am sure we could have run it until the gasoline was all gone.
citfta
Definitely a very bad idea. A ballast puts out high voltage AC. It is much higher than the 480 volts you have already experienced. Also an HHO cell requires DC. I am glad you asked before trying this. After you have some education in electronics you will see there are some other reasons why this is not a good idea. But the most important are that it is very dangerous and it wouldn't work anyway. Hope this helps, citfta
I"m not sure what you mean that the 555 timer circuit is a hoax. I have worked in electronics most of my life and every 555 timer circuit I have seen works just like it was designed to. As far as vacuum tubes go they will accept any kind of signal you send to them. They make excellent switches and can be turned on and off with a square wave signal even faster than most solid state components. The biggest problem with tubes are that you will need a filament supply and tubes are getting harder and harder to find. As far as the SCR goes the problem with using it as a switch is that once it is turned on it will not turn off until the voltage is gone. if you intend to leave it on until your capacitor is totally discharged then it will work for what you want.
to the forum. I don't want to throw cold water on your idea but I don't believe you will be able to maintain the heat you would need in the engine for this idea to work. A diesel engine works on the same idea except it ignites fuel instead of turning water to steam. They have a very high compression ration of usually over 20:1 instead of the lower ratio of a gas engine. This high compression is partially for the same reason you have said. It helps to heat the air. However it is not enough to even fire a diesel in cooler temperatures without some form of extra heat put into the engine. So diesels use glow plugs or airflow heaters to help get them started and they use quite a bit of power from the battery besides the cranking power needed for the starter.