I don't know if this stuff was suppressed or it just never caught on:chindogu
Chip Shorter
4 posts · 15 more in threads this archive does not carry · writing between Mar 2008 and Jun 2008
An identity on Energetic Forum as it was harvested, not an account on this site. Nobody here has claimed it, and nothing connects it to a person by name.
Hey Aaron,
The cap is a Aerovox 4uf 5kv. I'm driving it with an oil furnace 10000 vac spark ignition transformer with around 30-35vac from a homemade transistor multivibrator instead of the 120vac and then into a full wave 6kv bridge before the cap. That gives me around 3000vdc across the cap. I can adjust my multivibrator so I start low and work up with voltage. The most important thing IMO is the diodes. Before I had the HV diodes I used a few 1n4007 in series. The problem is when one let go then they all collapsed. Also I had a 1 mega ohm resistor in series in one experiment and at 3000vdc it jumped right across the resistor. Because the chopper circuit had a problem(not fast enough plus on time / off time out of proportion) when I got close I could feel a little discomfort and a slight pain. Also noise showed up on a radio I was listening to whenever I had an arc going whether I could see it or not. With the new chopper I'm building the rotor area versus the contact area divided by the circumferance(between poles) of the distributor cap should get me near the correct on time and off time I feel I need to make it work right. Once I have the static on time and off(proportion) time the frequency will be adjusted by controlling the rpm of the motor to the distributor rotor. Its a lot of goofin' around but I see as long as I make a short abrupt spike unidirectionally, I should be sucessful. Remember Gray had 3 of these for his motor. Makes me wonder if he was doing a sort of Tesla switch thing with these using the tube to absorb hv arcing instead of the brushes via clever timing and series paralleling the caps to maintain a potential??? A lot of experiments will have to be run. Right now I'm waiting for some parts to come in.
The cap is a Aerovox 4uf 5kv. I'm driving it with an oil furnace 10000 vac spark ignition transformer with around 30-35vac from a homemade transistor multivibrator instead of the 120vac and then into a full wave 6kv bridge before the cap. That gives me around 3000vdc across the cap. I can adjust my multivibrator so I start low and work up with voltage. The most important thing IMO is the diodes. Before I had the HV diodes I used a few 1n4007 in series. The problem is when one let go then they all collapsed. Also I had a 1 mega ohm resistor in series in one experiment and at 3000vdc it jumped right across the resistor. Because the chopper circuit had a problem(not fast enough plus on time / off time out of proportion) when I got close I could feel a little discomfort and a slight pain. Also noise showed up on a radio I was listening to whenever I had an arc going whether I could see it or not. With the new chopper I'm building the rotor area versus the contact area divided by the circumferance(between poles) of the distributor cap should get me near the correct on time and off time I feel I need to make it work right. Once I have the static on time and off(proportion) time the frequency will be adjusted by controlling the rpm of the motor to the distributor rotor. Its a lot of goofin' around but I see as long as I make a short abrupt spike unidirectionally, I should be sucessful. Remember Gray had 3 of these for his motor. Makes me wonder if he was doing a sort of Tesla switch thing with these using the tube to absorb hv arcing instead of the brushes via clever timing and series paralleling the caps to maintain a potential??? A lot of experiments will have to be run. Right now I'm waiting for some parts to come in.
The E.V. Gray group on yahoo might as well should be called the RotoVertor group. Thats all they talk about there and it got real old.
I built a gray tube and the assorted circuitry. I was able to light a flourescent bulb with one wire coming out of the tube on connected to the copper grid. The problem I had was switching the back end of the tube. I decided to go with mechanical switching as the other stuff burns out too fast. I am using a distributer off a V-8 pick up truck for the chopper circuit.
The tube itself was constructed from a clear acrylic tube with copper water pipe drilled and used as a shroud around the spark gap. The rods were tungston rod from a TiG welder. Also carbon graphite was used that was about an ohm in resistance. After shutting off the HV side of the circuit the bulb stayed lit for a long time until the cap discharged. 8-10 minutes. I had to manually move the electrode to get the spark to start. HV diodes are a must as well as a meter capable of reading 5kv though I ran it at about 3kv. Gloves too.
I built a gray tube and the assorted circuitry. I was able to light a flourescent bulb with one wire coming out of the tube on connected to the copper grid. The problem I had was switching the back end of the tube. I decided to go with mechanical switching as the other stuff burns out too fast. I am using a distributer off a V-8 pick up truck for the chopper circuit.
The tube itself was constructed from a clear acrylic tube with copper water pipe drilled and used as a shroud around the spark gap. The rods were tungston rod from a TiG welder. Also carbon graphite was used that was about an ohm in resistance. After shutting off the HV side of the circuit the bulb stayed lit for a long time until the cap discharged. 8-10 minutes. I had to manually move the electrode to get the spark to start. HV diodes are a must as well as a meter capable of reading 5kv though I ran it at about 3kv. Gloves too.
I have been looking into a circuit that will utilize voltage to frequency convertors. Then the outputs from those will go through logic that will switch the batteries. I would also like to series batteries to boost voltage then have the capability to parallel them for charging.
But looking at some of your schematics here guys I'm having second thoughts. BTW I noticed a lot of your schematics are really nicely done. What software are you using to draw them?
But looking at some of your schematics here guys I'm having second thoughts. BTW I noticed a lot of your schematics are really nicely done. What software are you using to draw them?